Just a gentle stroll from Karnten Cottage, you’ll find one of Yorkshire’s most spectacular secrets hiding behind the most unlikely entrance. Hardraw Force – England’s highest unbroken waterfall at 100 feet – can only be reached through The Green Dragon pub in the tiny hamlet of Hardraw. It’s wonderfully Yorkshire: pay your entrance fee at the bar, grab a pint if you fancy, then head out the back door for one of the most dramatic waterfall walks in the Dales.
The Walk: Pub to Plunge Pool
The beauty of Hardraw Force lies not just in its impressive drop, but in its accessibility. From The Green Dragon, it’s barely a ten-minute walk along Hardraw Beck through a narrow, wooded gorge. The path is well-maintained but can be muddy after rain – and let’s be honest, it’s often after rain up here. Proper walking boots are worth their weight in gold, especially if you’re planning to venture behind the waterfall itself.
The approach builds anticipation beautifully. You’ll hear the thunder of water long before you see it, the sound echoing off the limestone cliffs that tower above the beck. Ancient ash and sycamore trees create a natural tunnel, their branches filtering the light into dancing patterns on the path. There’s something almost mystical about this hidden valley – it feels like stepping into a fairy tale, complete with moss-covered rocks and the constant music of running water.
When you finally round that last bend and see Hardraw Force in all its glory, it’s genuinely breathtaking. The water plunges straight down from the cliff top in a single, unbroken curtain, crashing into a deep pool carved from solid rock over thousands of years. On sunny days, you might catch rainbows dancing in the spray. After heavy rain, the force becomes a roaring monster that you can feel in your chest.
Behind the Curtain (and Other Secrets)
Here’s where it gets properly exciting: you can actually walk behind Hardraw Force. The path leads around to the right side of the waterfall, where a narrow ledge allows you to duck behind the falling water. It’s slippery, it’s loud, and you will get wet – but standing behind that wall of water, looking out through the cascade, is an experience you won’t forget. The sheer power is humbling, and the view back through the water transforms the familiar world into something otherworldly.
Bring waterproofs if you’re planning this adventure, and maybe leave the camera safely tucked away. This is one of those moments best experienced rather than photographed. The spray creates its own microclimate back there – it’s surprisingly cool even on warm days, and the sound is so overwhelming that conversation becomes impossible.
The pool at the base is deep and tempting on hot summer days, though the water temperature rarely rises above “absolutely arctic.” Local legend says the pool is bottomless, though geologists would disagree. What’s certain is that it’s been carved deep into the limestone over millennia, creating a natural amphitheater that has hosted brass band contests for over 150 years.
The Perfect Dales Day Out
The genius of Hardraw Force is that it pairs a spectacular natural wonder with proper Yorkshire hospitality. After your walk – whether you’re soaked from behind the waterfall or just pleasantly damp from the spray – The Green Dragon awaits with hearty food and local ales. It’s the kind of circular experience that makes perfect sense: nature and nurture in one neat package.
From Askrigg, Hardraw is just a couple of miles up the valley – close enough that you could easily walk there from Karnten Cottage if you’re feeling energetic, or it’s a pleasant five-minute drive if you’re not. The hamlet itself is tiny, little more than a cluster of stone cottages around the pub, but it punches well above its weight in terms of natural drama.
This is Yorkshire Dales walking at its finest: spectacular, accessible, and with a proper pub at both ends of your journey. After a day exploring England’s highest single-drop waterfall, you’ll return to Karnten Cottage with wet boots, damp clothes, and the kind of satisfied tiredness that only comes from experiencing something genuinely special.
Disclaimer: Featured images are AI generated for illustration purposes only and may not represent exact locations, conditions, or seasons. Weather, lighting, and scenery vary throughout the year. Always check current conditions before planning your visit.