Short History of Hawes: Market Days, Cheese, and Grit

The short history of Hawes might surprise you. Nestled at the head of Wensleydale, this little Dales town has played a big part in the life of the region — from medieval monks to modern cheese lovers.

Wensleydale cheese has been made here since the 12th century, first by Cistercian monks using rich local milk and time-honoured techniques. After centuries of tradition and a few near-closures, the Wensleydale Creamery continues the craft — drawing visitors from all over the world to taste and tour.

In 1699, Hawes was granted a market charter, and its Tuesday market has been going strong ever since. Farmers and traders have long gathered in the square, and while the goods may have changed over time, the atmosphere remains much the same: lively, local, and full of character.

The arrival of the railway in the 19th century brought a wave of change, linking Hawes to larger towns and cities and opening up new opportunities. Though the line eventually closed to passengers, steam trains have since returned via the Wensleydale Railway, adding a nostalgic charm to the area. The old station is now part of the Dales Countryside Museum, where you can explore the stories of people who lived and worked in the upper Dales.

Hawes has always been a place shaped by its environment. The roads can be wild in winter. The hills can feel isolating. But that same tough terrain has created a deep-rooted sense of humour, self-reliance, and pride. It’s there in the dry stone walls, the pubs full of hikers, the conversations at the butcher’s counter — a quiet resilience that gives the town its charm.

If you’re visiting, don’t miss the Creamery, the Museum, or the view from Buttertubs Pass. And if you catch a market day, grab a slice of Wensleydale and enjoy the sound of a town that still knows how to gather.

Fancy walking off that cheese? Try our guide to Aysgarth Falls — a perfect day trip from Hawes.